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Daylight Saving Time (DST) or summer in British English and European official terminology (see terminology) is the practice of temporarily in advance
Brick Home Basics
Brick homes built prior to the 1920s are true brick homes. That is, their covering walls are 3-4 courses of brick thick and supply the load bearing structure of the house. Homes of more up-to-date vintage are unmistakably of wood building and the brick is just a singular layer facade. The brick is held away from the wood building by a 1" gap to forestall the porous brick from touching and damaging the wood structure.
Water Penetration into the Home
Brick and mortar are porous materials that speedily dispell water into them when it rains. The water gets into the brick and goes in any directions. The first direction is downward. The force of gravity causes the water to flow down. Your home should have gaps in the mortar any courses above the soil to allow this water out. Some masons will also put in a cotton cord in these gaps to let the water out. It is potential for the water to enter cracks in the foundation and show up as leaks in the basement. Or water can leak nearby windows and doors at it flows downward.
The second direction is inward towards the house. The brick absorbs the water from rain and if adequate gets into it, the liquid water can migrate to the inside covering of the brick. If there is no gap between the brick and wood structure, it is potential for the water to damage the home by causing rot and providing insects a home.
Until the brick dries out after the rain has stopped, it is continually releasing water vapor into the home. This water vapor can also damage the structure of the home.
Sealing the Brick
Sealing the brick prevents water penetrating into it. When it rains, water will be repelled and stay out of the brick. But be sure to get the right kind of sealer. Many brick sealers are designed for patios or the interior of a home. These are not the types you want for your brick walls. Many of these have a gloss end and sit on the covering of the brick.
A homeowner wants a non-gloss end so that the home doesn't look like it glows in the daylight. The sealer also needs to be breathable to let out any water vapor advent out from the house.
Siloxane brick sealers jab up to a 1/4" below the covering of the brick. Once they are applied they are indiscernible to the viewer. The siloxane works by filling the wee pores of the brick and forming a hydrophobic fence against water. After curing the fence is indiscernible to the eye and will not yellow from Uv rays. The texture of the brick will be the same as before the sealing process. Any water vapor advent out of the home's interior will still get vented. This will forestall any spalling to the brick caused by water being trapped inside and frosty in the winter.
Applying the Brick Sealer
Application of siloxane brick sealer with a pump-up garden sprayer is a fast and easy process. Begin at the bottom of the wall to forestall streaking. Be sure to read the manufacturers instructions carefully. The sealer will not harm plants but any that gets onto metal or glass should be cleaned immediately with soap and water.
Sealing the covering Brick of Your HomeReport after record comes in about how many habitancy couldn't or didn't escape the wrath of Hurricane Katrina. More reports come in about the disorganized relief effort, the communications problems they're having and the strangeness in getting survivors to protection even when they are reachable by recovery personnel.
Hopefully, few of us will ever be caught in such a wide and devastating disaster as Hurricane Katrina. But should a natural or manufactured disaster threaten your house or force an evacuation, having a fully-stocked and easily-reached emergency "bug-out" bag could help save your life while the first stages, and help make rescue, recovery and a return to normalcy easier and more successful.
A bug-out bag is basically a duffle bag or other easy to carry luggage piece stocked with the following items:
Photocopies of leading documents such as birth certificates, drivers' licenses and so on for the whole family. Note: keep the originals in a safe deposit box or other safe place - non-notarized photocopies cannot ordinarily be used for official actions like getting a drivers license, but are more than fine for temporary Id in emergency situations. And don't forget insurance papers and other items you might need to begin rebuilding. A small sum of cash (-50) for immediate emergency use. A temporary furnish of prescribe drugs in their originally-labeled containers, regularly rotated for freshness. This is genuinely done by buying one refill ahead. As you stop your current box or bottle, take the next one out of the bag and replace with a newly purchased refill. A furnish of meal exchange and vigor bars. Look for items that are designed more for calorie and nutrient density, such as protein bars and hikers' meal bars, rather than those sold as snack products or candy bar substitutes. You can also contain dried foods or hiking meals and other lightweight, easy to prepare and eat items such as nuts, small candies and oatmeal packs. A water purification kit or hiker's filter system. Bottled water is bulky, heavy and goes stale quickly. Dirty water, while distasteful, can often be genuinely found, practically filtered straight through cloth to remove large particulate matter and then sterilized for safe drinking. In a worst-case scenario, boiling dirty water for 15 minutes will serve until alternatives can be found. A pre-paid phone card and a list of relatives, friends and emergency numbers. Check for expiration date and rotate out or renew as needed. A non-battery-dependent, rechargeable flashlight, radio and cell phone charger, if you have a phone (alternatives contain solar, squeeze-charge or kinetically expensed options). Even when phone service was available, many Katrina survivors could not call out to get help or modernize relatives because their phones were dead and there was no power. Keep in mind also that even when phone service is spotty, small text messages can sometime get through. A multi-tool (the kind with blades, pliers, screwdrivers and so on) for taking care of small but sometimes life-or-death repairs and jury-rigs. A small first aid kit containing at least bandages of discrete sizes, hygienic ointment, sunscreen, a bottle of caress lens saline explication (good for cleaning injuries and flushing eyes) and Otc pain relievers. A protection lighter and a few small candles. Never light these unless you are sure that there is no chance of an explosion from natural gas, propane or other leaking fuels. For safety, use your flashlight for your customary light source. Save the lighter and candles for starting cooking or heating fires. An indelible, waterproof black permanent marker (buy new and keep in box until needed, to pronounce freshness). Useful for many things together with leaving notes for rescuers or others on anyone is at hand, marking your gear at a shelter, and writing Id and healing info on the arms of kids, the elderly, the ill or anyone who may become separated or are unable to speak for themselves. (There are also white markers that can be used for darker-skinned individuals, or simply write on a lighter area of their body). Sturdy hospital or nightclub-style Id bracelets are also handy for this purpose. Note: there is all the time danger in having children's Id simply descriptive to strangers. Use your best judgment in each situation to weigh the discrete benefits and concerns. Don't forget the pets! Keep their carriers handy, clean and ready to go. Your kit should have any food, medications, leashes and leading papers requisite for them, as well. Not all evacuation shelters will take animals. If you have pets, it is leading that you know ahead of time where they can go and how you will take care of them in an emergency.
The bag should be checked and the edibles or expirables rotated at least every 6 months or as needed (schedule a quarterly check while daylight savings changeovers, when you also check your smoke alarm batteries and do other seasonal activities). Although this will cover most survival situations, you should customize it to fit your needs (toiletries, extra gear, food additives, small paperback books, etc). Just keep in mind the weight and size of the final kit and that in an emergency situation you may have to carry it for a long time over rough terrain while tired, hungry or even injured.
Your bug-out kit should be settled near the main entrance and exit, or in an easy-to-reach central location. Every member of the house should know where it is and to make sure it is part of any emergency evacuation. (It is leading to stress, however, that no one ever go after any item, even the emergency bag, in the case of a house fire. In that case, focus only on getting out as soon as you can.) Smaller versions of this bag can also be kept in offices and vehicles.
Although having a bug-out kit cannot guarantee your safety, it goes a long way toward ensuring that you and your house have the best chance inherent of manufacture it straight through any unforeseen emergency as healthy and safe as possible.
accident Disaster Planning: construction a Bug-Out KitA bug out bag (Bob), also referred to as a Get Out Of Dodge Bag (Good Bag), is a pack that has all the essential items for any survival situation for 72 hours or longer. Below I'll furnish a detailed checklist that will give you a good comprehension of what you should have in your bag. Remember that when you pack to think about the weight of each item and ask if it will be worth carrying it. Most times more gear will be better, but just keep weight in mind.
The most prominent thing about a bug out bag is the potential of the bag itself. You will be entrusting this bag with your life, so try to get a good quality. The best ones have a place for a water bladder, straps and good amount of exterior pockets.
Remember the four 3's:
3 minutes without Oxygen, 3 hours in harsh weather, 3 days without water, 3 weeks without food.
Shelter- security is the most prominent (3 hours in bad weather). If you know how to pitch a tent correctly then all this may mean to you is packing a tarp and tool to set it up. If you don't then remember to pack something you know how to setup. Also remember to pack a sleeping bag and whatever else you might need to keep you dry and warm.
Water- Water is behind security (3 days without water). Pack a few water bladders and remember to keep your water bladder filled with clean water (this may mean dumping the water in it and refilling it every now and again to make sure the water is nice and clean if the situation arises where you need to use it). Also, a water filter can save your life if you run out of water. Never drink water in the wild without boiling/treating it. Recommended amount of water intake is distinct for everybody but a good way to think about is half your weight in fluid ounces. So if your weight 150 pounds, 75oz a day is your recommended amount. 128 fluid ounces is a gallon so that would mean you need to drink a slight more than half a gallon a day.
Food-Food is in last at 3 weeks (that's assuming you have water). Freeze dried food and Mre's are recommended for survival because they are high calorie food rations that will furnish your body with the vigor it needs. Trail mix also has a lot of fat so you may want to reconsider packing some to eat while you're traveling. Like water, the recommended amount of fat differs from man to man depending on height, weight, gender and more but try to eat 3,000 fat a day. Never eat below 1,200 fat a day.
Checklist:
Here is a simple checklist for your bag (This is not set in stone, everybody has distinction skills and this is just to give you an idea):
Flashlight
A good survival knife
Tape (Duct Tape/Gorilla Tape)
Mre's or Freeze dried food
Sewing kit
Some form of getting your hands clean if needed (dish soap, bar soap, etc.....)
Bottles of Water (Water Bladder that's filled would be good too. Water purification tablets and a water filter would be good as well)
Multi-tools are very good to have because they take up less room
Radio (Hand Crank/Solar would be best but battery operated is fine)
Rechargeable batteries for your tool that needs them.
Camp stove (try to find one that uses manifold fuels)
A copy of emergency and prominent contacts (include addresses and phone numbers)
First Aid Kit
Money (If you have to leave your city for a few days
Maybe an extra copy of your I.D.
Para cord (preferred) or very strong rope
Map of the area
Hygiene necessities (comb, toothbrush, small can of shaving cream, razor, toothpaste)
A waterproof way of beginning fire (flint/waterproof matches/etc...)
Extra convert of clothes (include socks and underwear)
Can opener (small one)
A list for defensive purposes:
100+ extra rounds for each of your firearms
a form of night foresight sight (Sighting scope, a rifle scope that functions in daylight and night, etc...)
Remember to camouflage all of your tool (including your bug out bag itself)
Bug Out Bag Checklist for Preppers and Survivalists